Winterizing Your Boat
Whether the
boat is under a cover or not, There are a number of things you
should do:
1.
On sailboats, strip and clean winches. This gets rid of the salt
residue that could combine with the winch grease to clog the gears
next season.
2. Remove the compass and stow it
in a cool, dry place. If you leave your compass exposed to the sun,
the alcohol could expand and seep out. When the alcohol cools, a
bubble will form at the top of the compass.
3. Remove all electronic instruments from
your cockpit or bridge unless they are bolted down. Exposed
instruments may get battered by the weather and malfunction next
year- or they may get stolen.
4.
Scrub and oil teak decking and covering boards before covering the boat.
This will help preserve the teak over the winter when cold and dry winds
may desecrate it.
5.
Make sure that you have built up several coats of varnish on brightwork.
Many experts we talked to consider seven to nine coats a minimum for a
New England or Florida winter. Without varnish protection, fresh water
can penetrate into cracks and turn wood black. If you build up enough
layers of varnish, you will only have to cut the top layer back before
applying a new layer next year.
6. We recommend that
all masts be removed. This helps prevent fatigue damage to mast fittings
and the hull. It also exposes less windage to the might of winter's
gale, making your boat less vulnerable to being blown over. (If you
cannot remove the mast, make sure you tie the halyards away from the
mast. At 4 a.m. on a Winter's morning, clanging halyards are a way
of showing your neighbor's how inconsiderate one may be. Masts are made
of several different types of metals, and corrosion can occur even in
winter if they are not adequately insulated from one another. When the
mast has been pulled from the boat, you should remove the windex, wind
instruments and any masthead antenna. These will be safer at home. Use
messenger lines and remove all the halyards. They should be soaked in
warm soapy water to remove salt and to keep them soft and pliable.
Remove the roller furling gear and store it under cover. Over the winter
it should be serviced and cleaned. Finally, check all the toggles and
pins to make sure they are not bent. Replace any that show signs of
stress or bending. Also, check each shroud and spreader ending for signs
of corrosion or wear. If you find problems, get a qualified Rigger to
look the rig over.
7. Pull the anchors and
anchor chain from their lockers, power-wash them and lay them out. Check
anchor pins and bow rollerpins and replace bent ones. This is a good
time to mark your chain. Mark it at 1 fathom for the first 10 fathoms
and then at 2- or 3-fathom intervals. This way, you'll know how much of
the rode is out. Use a white painted link for one fathom, red for two,
green for three, blue for four, and so forth. Wind a short length of
wire around a link at 10 fathoms so you can tell by feel. Paint two
links when you run out of colors. Wind a length of wire around two links
at 20 fathoms and so on . Clean the chain locker( making sure drains are
clear) and the bow roller and get the windlass serviced.
8.
Check all the stanchions and lifelines. If a stanchion has been bent it
should be replaced. If a stanchion base has come loose it should be
removed, re-caulked and bedded with stronger backing plates. Check
plastic-covered lifelines for nicks and cuts. A cut can let salt water
through the plastic where it can corrode the wire core, rendering the
lifeline useless.
9. At the helm, remove the
steering wheel and get the steering gear checked out. If it Is wire,
make sure it is greased and oiled and that all sheaves have guards and
run freely. Check hydraulic steering for leaks and dips. Make sure that
all seals, valves and lines are free of corrosion.
10.
Remove all gratings and loose woodwork. These can be taken home and
stored in a dry, warm area where you can work on them over the winter.
If you wish, you can schedule varnishing or oiling while the gear is out
of the boat.
11. Remove dodgers, awnings and biminis.
Carefully roll any clear plastic windows and store them where they won't
be damaged. Any service work should be scheduled over the winter when
rates are lower and and time is available. On a sailboat, remove all
sails, take them home and wash them with warm soapy water. Dry sails
carefully, fold them and store them where mice or vermin cannot get at
them, or take them to a sail loft for maintenance. If you do it
yourself, check your sails over carefully. Look for torn stitches along
each seam. Check each corner of the sail for distortion in the "D" or
"O" rings. Look for stress lines and de-lamination radiating out from
the corner. Also check the luff tape for wear and rips. If you see any
of the above, the sail should go to a sailmaker for repair. Take it in
early. Sailmakers are glad for the work in winter,
and you can
probably negotiate a lower rate than during the spring rush.
12. Make sure hatches are dogged down tight and locked. Boats
left open under a winter cover do get better air cri-Celation, but they
may also attract thieves or vagrants.
13. Remove
your life raft, life jackets and harnesses. Send the life raft back for
a checkup. Examine your life jackets and harnesses. If the life jackets
are inflatable, have your dealer check them and replace The inflator
mechanisms if needed.
14. If you have a dinghy,
take it home. Don't leave it in the dinghy rack all winter. It may
need a little TLC or varnishing. If you regularly leave it in the water,
make sure the bottom is cleaned and anti-fouled. Check the rub rail and
fenders to ensure that no screw heads (that can scratch up your
topsides) are protruding.
